SETTLE INTO THE CITY
EVENING
Unless you’re on a dawn departure, your flight from the UK will probably arrive in ISTANBUL in time for you to be in the city centre by early evening. Meaning that your first taste of SULTANAHMET, Istanbul’s historic old quarter, will be as sun sets over the Bosphorus and as floodlights start casting the monumental domes and spikey minarets of the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in a warm glow. Buhara Ocakbasi, down a side street off main Divan Yolu Caddesi, is a good central choice for your first dinner in Turkey; take your sticky baklava pudding with you, as it’s the perfect distraction for the walk or tram ride back to your hotel.
TOP TIP The easiest way of getting around Istanbul is with an ISTANBUL CARD, which is valid on the city’s metro system, as well as its buses, ferries and trams, and on the funicular that runs up through Galata. Cards cost ₺6, plus the amount you want to top them up with (so if you buy a card for ₺20, it will have ₺14 on it to spend on fares), and will save you around 40 percent on the cost of a normal fare. They are contactless (you only need to touch in) and can be used for up to 5 people. You can buy cards (and top up your card) from vending machines at metro stops and at Istanbul Airport; the machines take notes only, despite the coin slots.
WHERE TO EAT
It’s difficult to look beyond the variety of kebabs smoking on the open grill at this homely traditional restaurant in the backstreets of Sultanahmet. Opt for one of their regional kebabs, such as Iskendar (lamb, from Bursa in northwest Turkey) or spicy Adana (ground beef and lamb, from the city of the same name near the country’s south coast), or share a showpiece testi kebab, slow-stewed lamb cooked in tomatoes and peppers and then dramatically served at your table in a flaming clay pot. Meals finish with complimentary Turkish tea and baklava.
THE LIJOMA LOWDOWN
ISTANBUL INSIGHTS
Delve deeper with our tips on what to read before you go, foods your kids must try, and some key cultural advice
OUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO STAY IN ISTANBUL
From spacious apartments to quirky hotels – our pick of the most memorable places for families to stay in Istanbul
NEED TO KNOW
WHEN TO VISIT ISTANBUL
A handy overview of Istanbul’s weather and climate throughout the year, with recommendations for the best time to visit
ISTANBUL ESSENTIALS
Pre-trip practicalities, including getting there, visas and passports, health and safety and how to get around