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DAY 1: THE OLD TOWN

 
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STREET-ART & THE HOLY GRAIL

AFTERNOON

All of the UK airlines that serve Valencia operate morning flights, and with just a short metro ride linking the airport with the city centre, you can easily be exploring Valencia’s OLD TOWN by early afternoon. Many of the city’s major sights are located among the labyrinth of lanes that make up this medieval quarter, but the best place to start your exploration of the Old Town (Ciutat Vella in Valencian) is at the city’s 13th-century CATHEDRAL [open until 6.30pm, Saturdays and Sundays until 5.30pm | €8, under-12s €5.50, Family Pack (2 adults and up to 3 children under 12) €18, includes audio guide], which dominates busy Plaza de la Reina. There’s plenty to see within the cathedral’s vast, dark interior, including some superb Renaissance frescoes that had lain hidden for over 300 years until they were uncovered in 2004, but of most interest to kids are the side chapels containing a saint’s withered right arm (a sight not for the fainthearted!) and a jewelled goblet reputed to be the Holy Grail, the cup that Jesus Christ drank from at the Last Supper – of the hundreds of “grails” that exist across the world, this is the only one officially recognised by the Vatican. While you’re here, it’s worth climbing up the cathedral’s landmark bell tower, EL MIGUELETE [open daily until 7.30pm | €2], for views that extend across the rooftops of the Old Town.

Behind the cathedral, cross the pretty pedestrianised Plaza de la Virgen and head down Calle Caballeros. Taking any of the lanes on your right will lead you into the BARRIO DEL CARMEN, or Barri del Carme, the city’s oldest and most absorbing neighbourhood. This fascinating and sometimes gritty tangle of narrow streets, ancient churches and trendy vintage boutiques is a great place to admire the work of Valencia’s talented street artists, especially the murals around Plaza del Tossal (just off Calle Caballeros) and along Calle Baja (the street diagonally opposite). Work your way north from here – you can play a fun game of spotting all the cartoon ninja paint-sprayers on the way – turning right at Plaza del Carmen. You’ll see more murals on Calle Moret, on your left, before emerging by the TORRES DE SERRANOS, one of the two remaining medieval gateways that bookend the district.


TOP TIP If you’re going to be visiting quite a few sights and regularly travelling round the city on the metro, it can be worth investing in a VALENCIA TOURIST CARD. The cards give you free entry to municipal museums such as La Lonja de la Seda, discounts (usually around 10 to 15 percent) off attractions like the cathedral, the City of Arts and Sciences and BIOPARC, and unlimited trips on Valencia’s public transport system, including the journey to and from the airport. Cards last 24 hours (€15, under-12s €12.75, not available for under-6s), 48 hours (€20/€17) or 72 hours (€25/€21.25) and can be bought at the city’s Tourist Information Offices, including the one at the airport. Note that buses in Valencia are free for under-6s and the metro is free for under-10s.


WHERE TO EAT

Just across from the main entrance to the cathedral, this industrial-chic spot harks back to Valencia’s botigas, traditional little stores where the tapas are chalked up on a blackboard and the jamón serrano is sliced in front of you. The menu usually includes classics such as patatas bravas, slices of Manchego cheese, ham croquettes, and fresh anchovies in vinegar (which are very different to the salty pizza-topping version), as well as a range of monteditos (little open-faced sandwiches).





THE LIJOMA LOWDOWN

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