SWIMMING IN THE MED
Valencia has arguably the best city BEACHES in Spain, for all intents and purposes a single swathe of golden sand that runs up the coast for 3km just east of the Old Town. Backed for the most part by a promenade lined with restaurants and tapas bars, the beaches are wide, very clean (the main ones are both Blue Flag) and never feel too busy, even at the height of summer. Facilities include sun loungers and thatched umbrellas, and there are lifeguards on duty throughout the day.
The most popular beach is the central PLAYA DE LA MALVAROSSA, a minute’s walk from the tram stop at Eugenia Viñes (around 20 minutes from the northern Old Town, on tram #4 from Pont de Fusta) or a couple of minutes more from La Marina (around 25 minutes from the southern Old Town, on metro Line 5 from Xàtiva to Marítim-Serrería and then tram #6 from there). There’s usually a nice mix of families, couples and groups on this stretch, drawn by the basketball nets, beach-football pitches and volleyball centre at the back of the beach – and the glistening waters of the Mediterranean that fill the view in front.
Further south, fronting the faded old fisherman’s quarter of EL CABANYAL, the beach at PLAYA DE LAS ARENAS is equally easy to access. You can be on the sand in under a minute’s walk from Les Arenes tram stop (around 20 minutes from the northern Old Town, on tram #4 from Pont de Fusta) and in less than 5 minutes from the tram stop at Marina Reial Joan Carles I (around 25 minutes from the southern Old Town, on metro Line 5 from Xàtiva to Marítim-Serraría and then tram #8 from there; note that Marina Reial Joan Carles I is still labelled on some maps as Neptú). The swanky Marina Beach Club attracts a slightly younger crowd to this section of the beach, and the cranes in the nearby port provide an incongruously industrial background, but this is still a great place to flop on the sand for a few hours and enjoy a swim in the surprisingly clear sea. A string of restaurants, part of the PASEO MARÍTIMO promenade that runs up to Playa de la Malvarossa, provide plenty of options for lunch and dinner.
TOP TIP In summer, a section of Valencia’s swish marina is cordoned off to make a brilliant salt-water HARBOUR POOL [open daily from 12 June to 12 September 11 from 11.30am to 7.30pm | free], with a horseshoe of pontoons acting as different-height diving platforms. It can sometimes attract noisy, boisterous groups, particularly on the top pontoon, but there are a couple of lifeguards on duty who keep things in check. The pool is located in the inner dock, in front of La Base, a couple of minutes’ walk from the Marina Reial Joan Carles I tram stop.
WHERE TO EAT
Set just back from the palm-tree-lined Paseo Marítimo, this large, family-run restaurant serves consistently excellent paellas and rice dishes for lunch [it’s only open from 1 to 4pm], cooked in the original way – in huge pans on open wood fires. Opt for traditional paella valenciana, or seafood paella with fat pink langostines; like all proper paella restaurants, they cook theirs from scratch, but you can order in advance if you want to avoid the 45-minute wait. The restaurant is in a pretty tiled villa near the roundabout that marks the end of Playa de la Malvarossa and the start of Playa de la Patacona, the northernmost of Valencia’s city beaches.
THE LIJOMA LOWDOWN
VALENCIA INSIGHTS
Delve deeper with our tips on what to read before you go, foods and drinks your kids must try, and some key cultural advice
OUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO STAY IN VALENCIA
From beachfront apartments to hotels in the Old Town – our pick of the most memorable places for families to stay in Istanbul
NEED TO KNOW
WHEN TO VISIT VALENCIA
A handy overview of Valencia’s weather and climate throughout the year, with recommendations for the best time to visit
VALENCIA ESSENTIALS
Pre-trip practicalities, including getting there, visas and passports, health and safety and how to get around